It's a good thing I was never into Valentine's Day

The last Valentine's Day that I actively participated in was in 2007.  My new boyfriend painted a short message on a BIG canvas and hung it from the roof of my very communal apartment building.  When I walked out of my apartment and looked up, it hung there for everyone to see.  I don't remember what I did, but it probably wasn't as cool or embarrassing.  I think we actually broke up a few days after or before the next Valentine's Day.

The only other Valentine's Day I remember was from about 10 years earlier.  My boyfriend at the time gave me flowers and then we went out to Don Pablos (is this even in business anymore?).  I may have gotten a promise ring, I can't remember.  Now he's married and I'm in a country that has quite a different tradition on Valentine's Day.

Just like in America, the Japanese celebrate the holiday through consumerism.  Except, in Japan, the women are the ones doing the buying, and men are the one's expecting tokens of appreciation.  Chocolates are the product of choice, and in true Japanese style, it goes above an beyond the heart-shaped Russel Stover chocolate boxes found in America.  Oh- and you don't just get chocolates if you are in a romantic relationship with a woman.

You don't fuck around with gift-giving in Japan.  I once saw a cantaloupe for over $100 at a fruit gift store in Tokyo. 

Here's a video of the kinds of chocolates (and messages) you can send you the many men in your life:





As for me, I got off the hook because I had Valentine's Day off and I don't have a boyfriend.  But, my Valentine's Day wasn't empty.  As I sat in my pajamas, lazily on the couch around 1pm, my intercom rang.  I usually ignore it because the first time I answered it, it was someone asking about internet services, but we didn't speak the same language, and only had an intercom to try to figure out what the other was saying.  I hung up after apologizing in Japanese, only to have him ring me back 5 minutes later with a slight English translation to his spiel.  I felt bad and rang him up, and through broken versions of our language, some hand motions and facial expressions we realized it was all in vein.

Hai, internet. (translation: yes, I have internet)

Phone, no. (translation: no, I have no phone)

Hai, ima live koko. (translation: yes, I live here now)

No. America 2 back. (translation: no, I lived in American 2 months ago)

Gomenesai.  Arigatogozaimasu. (translation: I'm sorry! Thank you.)

But, the last time I ignored a buzz at 9am, it turns out it was an awesome package from NYC.  So, I hopped up, and answered.  Said I didn't speak Japanese, and then heard the keyword "flowers".  BUZZ.  My mind tried to navigate the short-circuiting thought paths of who could be responsible.  And then, I realized I looked like shit and it was 1pm.  I tried to pat down the flyaways on my head, and remove any fallen mascara from the night before, and was irritated that I had to even care.  Then, I slid across the kitchen to shut the door to my messy living room.  When I opened the door, 12 long-stemmed beautiful red roses were placed in my hands.

They become BIG red BIG.

Message for you here.

Please name here.
Arigatogozaimau.

I responded with the three Japanese words I knew, bowed and ran inside to read my card.  As much as I don't care so much about Valentine's Day, I smiled.  It was awesome to know that someone would go out of their way to do something like that.  And let my cat in on the action. 

Flowers as big as cat heads!

Some interesting Japanese dishes for you and the tapeworm inside you.

Eating in a foreign country is always more than half the fun of going.  It's always amazing, educational and challenging to eat local foods, most likely made from different ingredients than what you are used to.  I always get a kick out of asking my students their favorite food.  I have little kids saying their favorite food is sushi, or octopus balls, or nato (a fermented soybean product)!  It's also interesting for me to see how food is viewed differently in different places- what is taboo, what tastes "pair well" together, etc.

NIKUZUSHI
I was recently reading the news and I came across an article about a new restaurant in Tokyo called Nikuzushi, which literally means "meat sushi".  Instead of fish, the place serves up slices of raw meat served atop sushi rice.  The sushi rice has balsamic vinegar instead of rice vinegar in order to compliment the meat taste.   This would never be ok in the United States because we are terrified of bacteria in raw foods.  Which is actually stupid because animals eat raw meat all the time.  Fresh raw meat is ok.  Well, most of it.  This place serves raw beef, ox, chicken, pork and horse (a delicacy in Japan).  And it is so popular that within 6 months, they have opened up 5 more establishments.  The average diners are women in their 30s. 

Takoyaki (Grilled Octopus Balls) 

Originally from Osaka, Takoyaki could easily be the equivalent of hot dogs in the US.  This is because it's the most common street food that I've seen.  Its cheap (I got 3 balls for ¥100 today), cooks fast and is pretty much junkfood.  Its basically like an undercooked hushpuppy-pancake with chopped octopus pieces inside.  It's served with a sweet brown sauce and Japanese mayo and usually comes with the option of some green herbs, seaweed strips, and of course, katsuobushi- the famous dancing fish flakes.

Homemade Takoyaki-pa @ Kali's!

Step 1: Pour batter and drop in octopus pieces

Step 2: Wait a few minutes and add dissolving fat flakes

Step 3: Add green onion/cabbage

Next, is the hard part. 

Step: 4 You have to turn these half-spheres into balls.  How do you do this? By flipping them with chopsticks.  The truly trained can use only on chopstick to flip flip flip!

please ignore the stupid conversation going on while the flipping is taking place.

Step 5: top with sauce, mayo and katsuobushi!

  
Chicken Intestines w/ Spicy Sauce

 All over Asia, intestines are all the rage.  And with all the crazy shit I've eaten, I don't think I'd ever eaten intestines.
In Japan, chicken intestine is usually skewered and then grilled as yakitori, but in the dish to the right, you can see that its just cooked with a chili sauce on top and I think sprinkled with sesame seeds.  Surprisingly good.  A little chewy, but very pleasant, I definitely went back for 14ths.












Different Drinks. 

What is rare cheese anyway?

Japan has a lot more of a selection when it comes to drinks, and to be honest, I usually agree more with the drinks in Japan.  Who wouldn't want a great tasting veggie/fruit drink with 35 different fruits or veggies? Or hot ginger milk tea on a cold day? Or even Calpis (a somewhat carbonated sweet milk drink)?  Some of the more questionable ones are things like bean juice, or salad juice.  Or you know, ORANGE JUICE WITH CHEESE.

Convenient built-in straw stopper!

Shit-tons of Instant Ramen

I've mentioned this before, there are crates and crates of different flavored instant ramen.  While people in the United States are stuck with your average flavors like "Chicken" or the more exotic "Chicken and Vegetables", Japan hogs the fun.  When I was here two years ago they had "Seafood", "Seafood Light", "Italian Seafood" and "French Seafood".  Even though I almost threw up when I saw it, I knew I had to have "Milk Seafood" at first discovery.  Originally too scared to try it (even though its obviously some creamy seafood chowder like thing, and not MILK), I bought it to send home to a friend.  Well, hungry struck and my cupboard was empty, so I went for it.  It was SO good.  And if you are wondering, the seafood is octopus, fish cake, shrimp and crab.

Screwed-up Sandwiches For some reaeson, the Japanese cannot grasp the art of sandwich making.  Although I guess you could call their sandwich art Abstract.  Its always SO CLOSE, but maybe there is like corn and pickled radishes hanging out with the tuna salad.  Something is usually slightly off, to make it unappetizing.  Oh and they don't believe in wheat bread, its all wonder all the time.

 This is by far the weirdest sandwich I've seen so far: strawberries, presumably a sweet cream, or maybe cream cheese?, and then a slice of American cheese. FTW.

And a special performance by The Dancing Fish Flakes!

 

Hooray for leaving the house!

Truth be told, for the last few weeks, I've been a bit bummed about living in Japan.  I still think that Japan is a fabulous place to visit, but as the days wear on, I am starting to realize there are a lot of cultural differences that I really am not comfortable with.  This has resulted in me being pretty unsocial, which isn't hard since I don't really know anyone here anyways.  Its a clear avoidance technique that keeps me holed up in my apartment, drying up from the heater and going crazy from the computer screen.


Today I decided to forgo my Japanese lesson and to not work on my big to-do list.  I needed fresh air.  I decided to go with a friend to some antique shops in Kamayama, an area I'd never been to.  Immediately off the train, I spotted a camera store.  Camera stores are like my candy stores, especially when they have lo-fi things in stock.  This place was great.  They had so much awesome film, a huge selection of cameras, lenses and even a few awesome things I had never seen before.  In fact, I think I just found the next camera that I want to purchase.  It's basically a digital that shoots like a light-leaked lomo camera, which makes me both excited and a little sad. 

This was a dangerous place for little ol' me.  With my friend nagging us to leave, I escaped with only buying about $30 of film. I am so excited to try this out!  And, I was told that there is a cheap used camera store in Osu that is even better! Bye-bye paycheck...


The antique store was filled with some amazing things that were amazingly overpriced and I had to leave after a bit because of all the dust everywhere.  You could seriously make a killing importing US antiques to Japan- an old metal sign was about $200. WTF.  It's so weird for a culture that doesn't like "used" goods, to have them so expensive.

In fact, I was talking to a friend today about one of the things that bothers me about Japan.  It's so disposable.  Everything is plastic.  Cute, but plastic.  I realized this as I was trying to compiles packages for people back in the States.  Everything just looks so cheap.  And that's when she threw some knowledge my way.  Things in Japan are either really cheap or really expensive, there is no middle ground.  It's either Forever 21 or Chanel- but for everything.  And since I can't afford Chanel, I'm stuck with the F21's of the country.

The best find of the day was this place called Banana Record.  I flipped through the bins of Rock and Hip Hop/RnB and snagged about 7 great albums for ¥100-¥500 each:

- 2 Elvis Costello and the Attractions
- 1 Billy Joel
- 1 Roxy Music
- Beatles
- Simon and Garfunkel
- Paperboy ("The Ditty" single!)

And recently, after getting back into this Japanese band I liked in 2003, I asked if they had any of their records.  The band is eastern youth and they are like a post-hardcore band from the 90's who eventually did a split with Cursive in 2002.  They are great live tons of energy.  I was in luck! They had one eastern youth album, so I grabbed it.

I remember being in 8th grade and scouring the racks of any CD store trying to find rare Japanese imports that were always horrendously expensive.  So far, things are relatively cheap at the record stores I've been to and the selection is pretty phenomenal.

All I need now, like I've always needed to play the small amount of vinyl I've collected over the years, is a record player...

Paws crossed I can find a used one in Osu.

Engrish: A Love Story, Hee we grow agrin!

Or luck.  You know, really whatever you want.

I want to know where I can buy a ticket for this awesome mode of transport.

There's really a lot to say here.  Subtly sexual and pro-drugs.

Do you think the bear in the back isn't in happy because he misplaced his child?

Again, a little ambiguously sexual...

Thank god that little box is demonstrating for me.  And it's for both boys and girls! Why?

Maybe if he didn't sleep so much he wouldn't get fat or be the butt of a quilting prank.

Sexual Engrish strikes again!

I have my wreath and I am waiting.

What luck! Clab is my faaaaave!

Setsubun: Sayonara, Winter. Hello, Spring! Get it on Rabbits.

I am beginning to think the Asians are far far ahead of white civilizations.  For example, China controls the weather all the time.  Sure, maybe not safe, but they do it.  They are god-like for a few days at at time.  I mean, they also add plastic to baby formula though, so I don't want to give them too many props.

Today is Chinese New Year and we find ourselves in the year of the rabbit.  And, as I found out today from a student, the Japanese actually follow the Chinese Zodiac, and have (new word for her!) adopted it as their own.

Cute Zodiac.  A jump-roping dog!

Perhaps, this is why they choose to have Setsubun on the same day as Chinese New Year.  So what is Setsubun? Well, its pronounced like seh-(t)su-bun, and it is officially the last day of winter.

THANK GOD.  As I was walking to work yesterday I couldn't feel my fingers, which is usually just an occurrence that saves itself for when I am trying to go to bed.  My eyes are bloodshot and my skin is flaky from constantly being tortured and dried out like papyrus from the heaters surrounding me 20/7.  I've decided I never want to live somewhere with cold weather and that, yeah, I am a sun-loving girl who would rather wear a scarf in the dead of summer than so chap herself to death.

So, I welcomed Setsubun with open coats, and fingerless gloves (or, groves, depending on where you are from).  But I didn't know it was Setsubun, the end of winter, until around 6pm when a student explained it to me.  I was impressed.  Somehow the weather in Japan doubled in temperature today, and it was actually something I might describe as warm.  I almost didn't wear a coat out.  It's like it KNEW it was supposed to get warmer, like its parents were Asian versions of Mother Earth and Father Time and going to make it practice the violin all day if it wasn't warm on Setsubun*. 

Wanting to know more about this holiday involving beans, bunnies and demons, I quickly structured my last lesson of the night to be a conversation about-WHATASURPRISE!!- Setsubun!  Here is what I found out:

Sushi Log, Roasted Soybeans and a devil who has a drummer fetish

1.  During Setsubun, soybeans are roasted.  People buy these soybeans for two reasons.  One: For good luck, you eat the same amount of roasted beans as years you are old**.  So, of course, I'm eating an invigorating 24 beans.  Two: Little children are then given the midori light to throw the beans all willie-nilly around the house and out the windows.  This "throws" away bad luck and eating the beans invites in good luck.

2.  Sometimes, the father of the house will put on a Demon mask, terrifying the children as they panic and defeat the evil monster by pelting handfuls of roasted beans at him.  This is to ward off evil spirits.  I asked who cleans up after all the "exorcising" and she said everyone (I'm going to read that as the mother) and the neighborhood birds do it outside.

3.  One more tradition also involves eating something so you know I'm in.  You have to down a big, thick, long, black, uncut sushi roll (what, did you think I was going to say something else?) without speaking, while- and here's where the Chinese show up- facing the nautical direction of animal whose year it is on the Zodiac.  So this year is Rabbit, and Mr. R is dead East.

Seriously, a mouthful. Not even hungry.

The Japanese like to party and we have another holiday (work off!) coming up next Friday that I will tell you about too.  In the meantime, go get your sushi log and roast some soybeans to ring in Spring!





*This is most definitely a reference to the latest book I've read, Battle Hymn of the Tiger Mother, in which an Asian-American mother goes on a tirade about raising children the Chinese way.  It's a quick read, and fairly interesting.  You can't help but have an opinion about it, since, you know, growing up is something we've all done.


**To illustrate a key difference in American and Asian cultures, I asked my student, What happens if someone eats more beans than their age?  She was baffled.  This was the first time anything had ever come up.  She just widened her eyes and said, "I've never heard of such a thing before."