The 50-hour Adventure: Sequence 3 aka The Snow Monkeys!

One of the big reasons we, or at least I, chose to come to Nagano was for the Snow Monkeys.  Any chance I can see some kind of wild animal, count me in!

If you keep up on Photography at all, read National Geographic or anything of the like, chances are you've seen snippets of these curious little monkeys from Yamanouchi, Nagano.  Their beet red faces, snow covered fur and blatant indifference to being in front of a camera has caught the attention of many photographers over the last few years, and more and more photographs surface in photography competitions and in nature magazines. 

Besides the fact these little macaques live in a frigid temperature, scaling mountains, jumping from thin branch to thin branch with the greatest of ease, they are famous for taking long spa days.  Japan is well known for the onsen peppered across the country, and the snow monkeys by Yamanouchi resort aren't letting humans soak up all the fun.

Oh, hey.

While on the train to Yamanouchi, 15 mins to arrival, we discovered that in order to take the last train back to Nagoya, we would have to immediately jump right back on the train.  Bummer.  Thankfully, I was with someone who spoke what was going on in my head:

"Well, we came all the way here to see these guys.  Do you wanna just get off, go see the monkeys and figure it out later?" Um. Hell yeah.  We quickly figured out when we could catch the last bus back to the train station, hopped off the train, into a cab and started our journey to the monkeys.

It started snowing pretty heavily once we got out of the cab, so I took advantage of our timing and snapped a few shots of the white blankets forming on top of our surroundings. 

 

Shinto Shrine

In order to get to monkey camp, we had to take an amazing walk through the forest.  I felt like I was in some kind of Hansel and Gretel fairy tale.  The snow was thick, the scene was steep and we started discussing different ways to deal with an avalanche.  Apparently, you can't tell which way is up if you are buried in snow.  The walk was so awesome though, it might have been worth it. 

In the forest

Carrie looking up at the snowfall

Yamanouchi Resort

As we neared, we came upon the resort.  It kind of ruined the scenario to see concrete evidence of society again, but it was still so storybook and picturesque that I can only really say this after-the-fact. 

I want to apologise right now because I didn't bring my SD card for my DSLR with me to Japan, so for this entire trip, and still, I only have my iPhone and some film cameras.  Having my DSLR would have been amazing for this.  I'm sure my fingers would have preferred staying inside gloves opposed to being subjected to the icy winds and snow just to use the touch screen of my iPhone.  Actually, I decided to head back into the museum and shop once my fingers got too cold to register on my iPhone.  I'm still kicking myself for completely forgetting about the L-CA in my pocket.  I also tried taking polaroids, but the polaroid back for my Diana F+ is broken.

Nonetheless, try to picture yourself here- freezing cold, trying not to slip on the ice, inhaling the scent of hot sulfur and watching monkeys bathe between slimy turds, getting so close they could beat the shit out of you with one swipe.

What's going on over there with Charley?

Not happy.

High Five!

Little Baby Macaques

 This monkey really upset me and made me realize how intrusive we were being.  I was only further bummed out when I went back to the museum/shop and overheard a woman talking about "feeding time".  I mentioned they shouldn't feed wild animals, to which she retorted, "But it's the only way we can make sure they stay here for all the visitors to see."

 

On the way back, I stopped to get a hot tea from a vending machine, and spent about ten minutes properly bundling up now that the sun was heading to bed.  This proved tricky when it came to actually drinking my tea.

Nuts from the cold.

On the train ride home, we decided to ride the train as far as possible- 11:45pm into Natsugawa.  Carrie would have to get up at 6am or some insane thing like that to catch the train to Nagoya and make it to work in time.  We secured a cheap place to sleep across from the train station, and then started watching "Human Centipede"* (Hence "Sequence One to Three" on these titles).  I DO NOT recommend this movie to anyone, especially after eating, or especially in a public place.  We ended up turning it off half way through because we were so paranoid that everyone around us would think we were freaks.

Gomen ne to all my friends out there who are big fans. 

*Speaking of which, I don't think that movie is 100% medically accurate.  There is a risk of dehydration for positions 2 and 3, as well as no nutrition coming from position 1, just crap. Literally.

The 50-hour Adventure: Sequence 2 aka Muffintopping in Nagano

 For its size (you can walk in it in full in about 2 hours) I was surprised at how many local specialties were found in Kamiyamada.  This area is famous their soba noodles and well-known for garlic tonkatsu, miso and tofu (and let me tell you, I am not a tofu fan, but this stuff was fantastic!), apples, a special type of Udon (Oshibori), Oyaki dumplings, and believe it or not- wine.  You can also go strawberry picking in a greenhouse, filling up little baskets of strawberries to take home.

As soon as we had the map laid out on the table, I noticed the name of a local restaurant in town:  Daikokuya.  We decided to eat lunch at Daikokuya, or rather, I decided demanded.  I pushed for this because I frequent the best ramen place ever in LA and its called Daikokiya. 

Outside of Daikokuya in Kamiyamada

 
In Nagano, it is a SMALL place famous for their garlic tonkatsu (fried pork).  Carrie ordered the specialty of the house.  Naturally, I chose ramen.  


To be fair, the Daikokuya's have completely different types of ramen. The ramen at this place had a very thin, salty broth that was VERY oily.  Which is a big contrast to the thick, almost creamy feel of the Daikokuya in LA.

To be unfair, the Daikokuya in LA still reigns as ramen champion.  Completely undefeated.

Garlic Tonkatsu set (rice, soup, salad, daikon)

Ramen from Daikokuya in Nagano

Trying to be polite, I nervously slurped my noodles.  Or attempted to anyway.  Its hard to do after being conditioned to eat quietly your whole life.  Throw chopsticks into the mix and it's a lost cause for little ol' me.


  All I know is that its really bad form to break a noodle.  Maybe it's akin to breaking a mirror.  7 years bad whatever.   Here's me failing at slurping, but winning at looking like a pig.

The place was so small, sitting only about 12 people total on 3 four-tops.  We shared a table with a Japanese man and I tried not to touch his knees under the table.  It seemed family owned, with only a middle-aged woman taking orders and her presumed other half shuffling in the small two burner kitchen.

Kitchen at Daikokuya in Kamiyamada

Wooden box full of delicious ramen noodles

When I asked for chili powder (like I always do), the man pushed for the old woman to give me something besides the usual.  I suspected it was the "chili powder for gaijin" and would end up being about as spicy as girl scout on a first date.  Turns out it had a nice flavor and was a regional specialty.  You know how I found this out?  Ok, fine, I'll tell you.  The container of chili powder was a small, red cylinder tin with a big yellow pepper on it that had a blue stalk.  While perusing an omiyage shop I once again saw this design.  Where? On the packaging for a regionally created Kit-Kat!

Chili Chocolate Kit Kat!

If you remember the Aloe Yogurt flavored Kit Kats I posted before, it should be becoming obvious that Kit-Kats are not oppressed to appear in just a few flavors like in the States.  I have literally seen about 10 different flavors here (my favorite is Ginger Ale).   Not to be outdone, another regional Naganese food, the apple, also found its way into a Kit-Kat! I bought them and will be sending samples to a few lucky friends. 

Apple Chocolate Kit-Kat!

Because our travel plans were made with such haste, we were unable to take part in any sort of cooking classes where you can make your own omiyaki, miso or soba.  But being a big fan of Udon, I wanted to try the Oshibori Udon I had been hearing so much about.  What was I hearing?

Fire pit or human torture device?

Mainly that is was intensely spicy, but not in a pepper way, more in a sinus-clearing wasabi way.  After the drag show we stopped by a place known to have good Oshibori Udon. 

We stumbled in, not even hungry, sat at the bar, wondered what the big table pits were and ordered the house specialty. 






 The Udon came out in a iron kettle of hot water with a wooden ladel and primitive wooden noodle grabber.  We had small side dishes of onions, miso, ginger, bonito flakes and daikon, as well as a bowl of radish juice to spice it up. 

You add each thing to taste in the big pot and serve yourself from this.

Unfortunately, the soup wasn't spicy to me, nor did it have an amazing taste.  I like daikon, but I don't need a watered-down soup broth made from it to be happy in this world.  But nonetheless, I was glad to try it!



We tried one more native dish from this area, but it wasn't until after we had left.  We tried in vain to find fresh, homemade oyaki dumplings while in Nagano, but no luck.  Carrie scooped some frozen ones up at the train station and we gave them the ol' nom nom at her place back in Nagoya.  They were fantastic and I don't understand why they aren't sold in other parts of Japan.  The closest thing I can think of to it is a sort of Hot Pocket, but this is healthier, and more Asiany. 

Its made by using fermented buckwheat dough, and filled with veggies, bean pastes and meats. 


And it turns out the big pits at the Udon place in Nagano are used for cooking oyaki!

Click to learn more about Oyaki

The 50-hour Adventure: Sequence 1

Nagoya, Aichi to Togura, Nagano to Yamanouchi, Nagano to Nakatsugawa, Gifu

A: Yamanouchi  B: Togura

Despite it's name, the Seishun Juhachi Keepu (Youthful Train Pass), is available for people of all ages to purchase.  It's ¥11,500 and allows five unlimited day rides on the JR local and rapid trains.  You can even split it with up to five different people!  Since sharing is caring, my friend and I decide to take our relationship one step further and go halfies.  Tomorrow: a house. 

Nothing says adult like a stuffed bear

We wanted to make sure we got our monies worth, so we had to go somewhere a little far.  The pass expired on the 10th, and lucky for us that was a holiday- Coming of Age Day (Seijin no hi), where the Japanese honor those who have turned 20years old and thus, are considered true adults in society that can drink, smoke, and vote legally.

On Friday, Carrie came after work and we cracked a few beers, perused the internet and at the mention of "small onsen town" and "snow monkeys" we were sold.  Nagano Prefecture it was. 

Saturdays are light for us, but we still wouldn't get off in time to make the 6 hour train ride, so we ritualistically grabbed a few beers from the convienie, and met up to decide how to spend our time.  Around midnight, we decided it was best to leave on first train.  In five hours.  I drunkenly (I'm a lightweight) climbed into bed telling myself I could just sleep on the train.

I met Carrie at 5:10 a.m. and we headed to Chikusa station where we would embark on a rad 50-hour adventure. 

Two hours to Yabuhara!

Public service uniforms are for serious in Japan

Immediately after boarding, I felt bad for anyone ever made too big for their world.  My seat felt like a toy seat, my knees almost hit the seat across from me, so I had to sit sideways, and the five layers of clothing I was wearing were quickly causing me to overheat.  Trains in Japan are heated from seemingly every orifice- the back of the seat, the bottom seat cushion, under the seat and probably from the ceiling.  I found myself pushing my hands and wrists up against the cold window and then pressing them on my neck and face.   All this coupled with the fact that across from me sat an ambiguously gendered person, who was paaaaaassssed out, and would fall forward, almost hitting my knees, and then jerk back up.  This process would repeat every 3 seconds.  The idea of sleep got off at the first or second stop, leaving me awake, overheating, and overjoyed to document the gorgeous snowy scenery we rolled past.

A visually beautiful, but physically painful 6 hours later "Togura Station" sounded overhead and we jumped off the train.  I called Kamesei Ryokan (our traditional Japanese bed and breakfast) and requested a pick up.

"Hello.  We are at the station.  Is it possible for you to give us a ride to the hotel?" I asked the American manager (he married the owner's daughter).

"Sure, give me ten minutes and I will be there!"

Before he could hang up I blurted out, "But how will we know who you are?"

"Um...I'll be the only 6'7" white guy in the vicinity."  Way to make me feel like a total asshole.  I think a lot of the reason I forget that stuff is because I "feel white" but look Asian, so I'm like "Omg, everyone is white in disguise!" togura

Tyler took us to the top of a mountain to the town's fertility temple built in the 40s.  It overlooks the Shinano River, Japan's longest river.  Heights and I are nemeses so I focused on anything snow-covered.  Snow and I have a long standing love affair, I think its the perfect accessory to landscape.

Steps up to the Temple, overlooking the mountains and town

Fertility Shrine: apparently it works. I didn't touch it.

Next we went to the Ryokan, Tyler showed us some cool things to do in Togura like making miso, strawberry picking, a ninja funhouse, drag queen geisha show, some onsen, restaurants, pottery classes, etc. 

Video of our traditional Japanese room

And 18 hours later...

It started rain/snowing (yay!) while we walked around, trying to take advantage of the last few hours of sunlight.  Peeling off 5 layers consisting of long socks, short socks, leg warmers, long johns and jeans, we took a break to soak our feet at a small park that had a public foot onsen.  Unknowingly, I still managed to soak the bottoms of my folded up jeans/long johns.  You try pulling up skinny jeans over fatty Korean calves that once graced many a soccer field.  It's not so easy, damnit!

Oh Whats Up, Fishes!

Foot onsen in the snow!

Hot Spring Water Fountain: Free sulfur water for all!

Another onsen fountain. 5 hours later I would discover drinking sulfur water acts as a laxative.

Carrie and I decided to hit up the drag queen geisha show, but first maybe we should stop at an izakaya and get our nonde on.  The waitress slipped us some unwanted snacks, and I am pretty sure I can add pork or chicken hormone to my list of weird things I've eaten.  I have no idea, it looked like a cross between a small ear and kidney.

The geisha show was interesting to see, difficult to understand, you know, since I don't speak Japanese.  But, they were also speaking in a dialect I'm not used to hearing and in such an informal way (and disrepectful) where they roll their "R"s hard enough to make any Frenchman jealous.  There was a 45 minute "intermission" where the lead actor spoke faster than the Mirco Machines man, still slightly rolling his "Rs" and trying to sell schwag from the show.  Here's a clip from the first half:

Apparently, according to Tyler, no one ever stays past the boring, awkward sales pitch and they miss possibly the best part- the dancing.  Check it out!

Later on in the night, I pulled a classic "I'm drunk and will die if I don't sing karaoke" move.  As we walked around the small town in the snow, we soon realized all the places for "entertainment" were basically bars with call girls in them.  This would not stop me.  We bargained with the door lady.

The face of true happiness.

"How much for one hour?" I asked.

"¥5,000" per person" she answered.  Suddenly, a vocabulary word from my Japanese lesson popped up into my head.  Thank god.

(later I would learn that I had actually recalled the phrase "very old" which I was repeating to this woman over and over like an idiot."

"Oooooh....motto furui. Motto furui." I said over and over. Carrie joined in.  "Too expensive, too expensive" We got the price down a significant amount, and soon we had the whole ladies bar to ourselves, and our own personal escorts!  Mine was from Thailand, and Carrie's was Korean.  They poured our drinks for us, laughed at our jokes, told us how great our voices were, and someone even got a little hand on leg action (not me!). 

The outside onsen

We bid our ladies adieu, and headed back to the ryokan excited to take a middle of the night soak in the onsen.  We got back to the room, pulled our clothes off, wrapped up in our yakata (robes), and padded down to the women's onsen.  That shit is hot.  I was sure I had caused some permanent damage to my skin and wasn't sure if birthing children would be possible anymore.  I explored out into the hall, and found my own little outside onsen to sit in while snow flitted down from the sky.  It wasn't until a few days back from our trip that it dawned on me I was using the outside co-ed onsen naked.  Oops. 



I woke up a few times in the middle of the night and I had no idea where I was, but I was finally jarred awake by the telephone ringing and Tyler's polite voice explaining it was almost time for check-out.  We hurried, left him a Nutri-Grain bar as a thank you present, and jumped in a cab headed towards the station.  26 hours in and this was already starting to be a fabulous getaway, only on its way to getting better. 


ps: have you ever seen a pommegranate tree? yeah, me either.

Creepy Tim Burton Pommegranate Tree

I don't have the right shoes for this stuff.

I decided to make a shotty film of my walk from my apartment to the train station yesterday, so everyone could see the snow, hear how intensely quite Japan is, and see a little bit of my neighborhood.

The amount of snow that hit Nagoya over the weekend was record breaking for the last 4 decades.  I feel really lucky to have been able to witness it, since I guess, it didn't even snow at all last year!  We got about 5 inches within 24 hours.  I was totally elated.  And call me crazy, but I think even though yesterday was one of the coldest years in Nagoya's history, it seemed a lot warmer.  I didn't even use my heater or fill my hot water bottle up before bed.

Snow at the entrance of my apartment

I love snow.  I don't know if it's because I've only lived in areas where snow is but a distant dream, because I associate snow with going to my grandparent's house in Indiana and all the innocent, fun and simple memories from playing in it with them, or just because snow seems really unnaturally beautiful to me.

My friend's picture of behind their house

It was a special treat to see snow resting atop all the Japanese style gardens in people's yards here too, and taking long, cold naps on the Japanese tiled roofs.

Today, the snow is melting and turning into mush beneath my feet, soaking into the sides of my flimsy boots and freezing my feet.  My heater is on full blast and I am again numb with the cold in my apartment.  I guess its time to go make some hot tea.

Kawaii: the sequel

Looks like the pancakes are having a bad morning.

Dolphin shaped meat outside the aquarium. Kawaii FAIL.

The horoscope sign for this year is Rabbit, which leads us into a whole new level of Kawaii.

Sadist bunny treat at the bakery,

Invisible shark high-five, a whiny rabbit and a friendly Indian.

Incubation bunny bao.

Even gluttony is cute on this poster outside of a shrine! hungry dog.

This is day Ken realized he had no self-respect.

Too far?

Sexually adventurous bunnies!

After years of intense graphic design school, Yoshi realized he really was a genius.

Nothing says OBEY more than a pissed off chicken in a bus driver suit.

Show off.